Bike fit is something that, until recently, was a bit difficult. In the beginning of my cycling career I was always trying to find just the right seat height and moving the position back and forth. Traditional wisdom of the day suggested get the biggest bike you could and ride the seat as high as you could. Also, on the old quill stems it was a real production to change stem lengths, so a person normally learned to accommodate a good amount of pain and discomfort. This lead to several problems that were all related to one another, though I wouldn’t know it until much later.

We are lucky now because the symptoms that most cyclists complain about can normally be alleviated by the massive amounts of adjustments that are designed into today’s bikes. Stem lengths can be changed and angles adjusted. Seat position is normally able to be adjusted through a wide range of positions with different seatpost setbacks and longer rails on the saddle. Companies like Specialized have invested heavily in the process of bike fit too. Thus creating programs like BG fit that educate local bike shops about fit in a way that was previously reserved only for elite level biomechanists and PT’s. Bike fit is a process that can be replicated over and over again for any rider with good results.

However, there are rare cases (of which mine is one) where traditional fitting practice and knowledge fall short. In these cases it becomes necessary for the fitter to think outside the box and draw on other disciplines to solve the fit problems.

The following is an example of how having ones body out of “adjustment” can be be a big factor in bike fit, power production, and pain while riding:

I have always struggled with my fit on the bike and have played with it for years. Nagging knee pain was always a big problem. Another issue that I have had was that I always felt “crooked” on the bike. Tweaks here and there have always been temporary fixes to the underlying problem that I never knew I had. After going to several fit schools and performing innumerable successful fits on others; I was at my wit’s end with my personal fit. After moving back to AR and developing a relationship with Ali Racheotes of SCA through the store I began thinking that perhaps my problem on the bike was not bike fit related. I scheduled an appt. with Ali and she did a comprehensive assessment my issues. Her approach of assessing the entire body, rather than just a small piece, helped me understand bike fit in a way that all my other experience and training had missed.

After I was “adjusted” I noticed and immediate increase in power and could feel that I was more square on the bike. I felt “straight”. All cylinders seemed to be lined up and firing in sequence. After a few weeks of the new “adjustments” to my body and several follow up visits my knee pain was gone completely.

If you have any cycling fit issues that you have been struggling with and previous bike fitting has not come up with a long lasting solution, perhaps you should consider getting a chiropractic opinion as well. I recommend that you use your bike fitter as a sounding board and ask them who they recommend for a consult. Of course, Highroller is the option for fit that I would recommend because we have the most experience with bike fit in NWA. PERIOD. We also have good working relationships with many other sports professionals in the area like Ali. With our blend of fitting styles we will be able to solve your problems.

Thanks for reading.
Branton

Charles Atlas knew about feats of strength.

Recreation, adventure, stress relief, exercise, competition, touring, commuting, working. …..

Many of us may start off in one discipline. As our skills improve and our desire to expand our horizons grow; we seek out new challenges. After a while we may need to increase the quiver of bikes available to us.  Ultimately we have a garage full of bikes and gear for all types of riding situations.  It seems that there is always something more on the horizon to peak our cycling interest. Something that you had not thought about before.

For 2012 Highroller Cyclery is planning on participating in events that we think fall into the category of “FEATS OF STRENGTH”.

What is a feat of strength you ask?

It varies for everyone, and these events are going to appeal to several different levels of riders and cross many disciplines. The events will address multiple types of strength and will not always be what you would expect. The event list will be updated as we hear of or come up with new feats throughout the year.

Feat of strength number one:

You never know about January weather in the Ozarks could be nice or naughty.

The Headwaters Challenge: January 28 2012. This is a long technical mountain bike ride. The Challenge begins with 15 challenging miles of singletrack riding around the Headwaters on trails that have recently been given official designation by the Ozark National Forest as the Upper Buffalo Mountain Bike Trail System. This is a very technical ride and will take expert and intermediate riders 2-3 hours to complete. These 15 miles make up the Half Challenge and finish at the start line. Lunch, snacks, beverages and a warm fire are waiting for all riders. After the break, riders can continue on to complete the entire 35+ mile Challenge ride. This requires 20 more miles of mixed Buffalo Headwaters singletrack, doubletrack, and Forest Roads. Riders must be ready to start at 10 AM SHARP! Call How Kuff at 870 861 5613 or email howkuff@yahoo.com for more details. Note that this is an invitational only ride for OORC members. Memberships may be purchased before the start at Foggy Rock Farm. If you plan to attend, it would be very helpful to contact the OORC prior to the week of the Challenge.

Stay tuned for more updates on upcoming Feats of Strength.

Branton

If you have an idea for a Feat of Strength in 2012 let me know.

Technology has been responsible for amazing leaps forward in the performance of our bicycles and the equipment we use while practicing our hobby. We all benefit from the lighter faster more aero parts and bikes that the application of new technology has allowed. Unfortunately, the technology that has been so instrumental in improving our cycling lives may also be responsible for a turn in the wrong direction.

We are are price driven society. I won’t go into whether that it is good or bad. From an early age we have been ingrained with the “good deal” mentality.

Supersize Me! The cheapest is always going to be the better deal, right? The internet allows many people to see a wide range of products and prices from many places very quickly. Notice you can see the product online but you can’t compare it. There still has to be a brick and mortar storefront for a consumer to compare and experience the product before they buy it.

So, two negative things can happen because of this. The consumer buys online without even checking into the local offerings, or they use the local shops as a fitting station for the product that they want and then buy online.

Bad thing number one: The Consumer gets a sub par product
A person interested in bikes goes online and starts “shopping”. They will be inundated with many types of bikes in lots of price ranges. Some online bikes claim to be “direct from the manufacturer” so they offer big discounts. Ultimately the consumer probably chooses based on what bike looks coolest to them or has the best parts for the money. But there is a big issue with these “good deals”.

In the quest to be the cheapest quality goes out the window. We see it all the time. A bike is brought into our store that someone bought online and it needs to be assembled. The customer is normally amazed at how much we charge to “put together the bike”. Truth be told the online bikes are shoddily assembled at the factory and need much more attention than one of our premium brand bicycles.

Another problem that most internet shoppers never even know about is that their cheap bike frame rides terribly. It doesn’t matter how good the components are. You cant overcome a bad frame design. Legitimate companies invest a lot of money in R&D to make the best bike frame possible. This investment has to be recouped, therefore more upfront cost. Most unfortunate internet shoppers will not know the true joy of a well designed frame, but god love ‘em they wont know the difference either.

Bad Thing Number 2: Local Bike Shops Loose Out
Amazon.com recently launched a free app called Price Check that allows consumers to use brick-and-mortar shops for research, then easily buy many cycling products online right from their mobile device.

Here’s how it works: when in our shop, consumers can scan a bar code, type in the product name or take a picture to see the product and prices from a variety of online retailers. After ensuring they have the right fit by trying on the product in store, and talking to our experienced staff, they can buy it from somebody else with the press of a button.

Who loses in this situation? Certainly not Amazon. And — at least in the short term — not the cycling brands selling through bike shops and Amazon. The local bike shops are the ones loosing out. Buying product from brands that severely undercut local brick and mortar stores just seems wrong to me. Amazon is clearly interested in the cycling space, and is hiring talent from the bike industry

Participating brands include Pearl Izumi, Shimano, Louis Garneau, Giro, Bell, Fizik, Sidi.

Whether the current news is mobile device apps or online discount stores, the underlying issue remains the same: some suppliers support the future sport of cycling and some do not. Highroller has made a commitment to the future of our industry and will only commit large amounts of space in our store to products that support the healthy growth of our business and industry.

You may say, “who cares if the local shops loose out?” I say you do. What happens when you need that cheap bike fixed when it ultimately breaks down, or when you have a warranty question. Good luck getting that bike fixed online. Consumers need us here to help guide them through the process of buying. We know the product and the nuances of it’s use. If the current trend continues we will see even more bike shops close their doors.

Before you get all worried, Highroller is coming off a very good year and 2012 is staring off well too. So thank you all for that. We don’t take it lightly.

Thanks for reading,
Branton

We all have different perspectives and experiences that influence the way we view the world. If you have comments on this topic I would love to hear from you.

Some have made steps toward eliminating the tube by switching  to tubeless; first on the mountain and then the  road. Still,  if a puncture rears it’s ugly head the best and fastest fix is still the inner tube.

I, for one, love the inner tube, and celebrate it’s tradition and utility. So simple an object yet so vital to this sport that we all love. Even outside the confines of a tire there are many ways to use an inner tube. Here are some of my favorites.

PATCH IT!
Inexpensive, good for the environment, empowering, and impressive to your other cycling friends patching a tube is simpler than you think. For less than $4.00 for a whole patch kit you can repair many tubes. It takes less than two minutes. See the video.

Make some Rubber Bands:

Just cut across the tube in a straight line and you have homemade rubber bands.

Make a chainstay protector:

Not the prettiest but it gets 'r done.

Make Cheesy bike Jewelry:

I didn't say it was cool.

Always have a bungee available:

Inner tubes make good cheap bungee cords

Tow your Friends:
Or make them tow you. This is best done with two experienced riders and can end badly if improperly practiced.

This teqnique varies but I prefer to loop the tube around the head tube of the bike being pulled and then attatch to the front bike.

Make a Giant Slingshot:

Hope you enjoyed,
Branton

Send me your suggestions for things you do with your old inner tubes.
highrollercyclery@gmail.com

“Dude that is a sweet looking kit”
“We should make our team kits look like team sky”
“Her repair kit was well supplied”

What is a “Kit” and why is it important?

There is probably no set definition in cycling, but I have always thought of it as the standard equipment and attire needed to participate in an activity. I have also known it to be viewed as the contents of a package designed for a particular use (ie. first aid kit). Therefore the things we need, carry, and use to enjoy cycling are all a part of our “Kit”

Because of the varied manufacturers, riders, and styles of riding very few kits will be the same. I believe that the rider’s kit should be a well planned affair. In the “Kit” series of posts we will touch on some of the things we have found to be the most valuable part of the “kit”. It will range from items you carry with you to those that make getting to and from the ride easier.

The inaugural “kit” post will focus on the Seatbag.

Neatly nestled under the seat.

Everyone has opinions on seatbags. They can range in size and style based on what you need or what you are doing. I am a proponent of keeping it as simple as possible but still having everything you could need for the ride. For instance, in the summer when I am doing shorter faster evening rides with more people my seat bag has only the bare essentials. In fact i will sometimes leave it at home and only take a tube and co2 in my pocket. When I am doing longer rides on my own in the winter months on questionable roads I choose to carry more with me.

Summer EDC (every day carry) minus the light.

Winter bag or longer ride bag. Yep it all fits.

I wouldn’t want to list out the individual items that I think a person should carry. That is going to be up to the rider to know their mechanical situation and choose bits accordingly. That being said, I would like to point out some tricks I have discovered that have saved the day on more than one occasion. First, To keep your tube from rubbing a hole against other contents in the bag put it in a sunglass bag or other type of soft material (old sock).

A chain link can save the day and it is less than $10.

Electrical tape wrapped around a tire lever co2 or your multi tool can come in handy

Adding a light is easy on the back of most seatbags

Thanks for reading!

Have a safe and happy holiday season.

Branton

A ride may begin in many ways. Inspiration comes in many forms. Discussing routes with friends over beers the night before or a solitary cup of coffee in the morning can equally inspire the course of events that bring a good ride to reality. The process that follows and ultimately results in a ride is a special one in and of itself.

According to the conditions and the terrain a rider must properly chose his kit. Of course, for the majority of the rides a quick fill of a bottle and squeeze of the tires is enough to get us out the door and on the road. I would encourage a bit more attention to detail though. Look at the weather conditions for the day to decide what will be appropriate to wear, think about the roads you will be on and adjust air pressure accordingly, know the group you are riding with and be sure to bring enough food to last your ride. (or be aware of where you might stop for a gas station corn dog)and last but not least please be cognizant of your seatbag. It must be properly equipped to handle most ride situations. (more on that in a later post)

Once steed and kit are in order it is time to go. This is a issue that seems frivolous but trust me once you master it you will understand. proceeding in a forward direction from a stop on a bicycle is a relatively straightforward endeavor, but doing it with style and authority can really get your ride headed in the right direction.

The manner in which a cyclist mounts the machine can be done in several ways but not all are appropriate.

The newsboy: A rider starts on a single side of the Bike and clips in one foot on that side then gets momentum going by pushing off scooter style for a few hops before swinging the pushing foot over the saddle and clipping it in. This is called the newsboy because for many kids with paper routes it was impossible to get on the bike any other way because the bikes they were riding were too big. Are you a paperboy? is your bike extremely ill sized? Then don’t do this. It is awkward and in group situations can prove humiliating.

The waddle: Surely this is the most embarrassing way to get onto a bicycle. it somewhat resembles how I imagine a duck would start out. Normally the rider is a novice rider. They feel at home clipping in at he bottom of the pedal stroke and there fore can’t generate momentum to get going without pushing off a couple of times. During this pushing debacle there is a high possibility of being “tattooed” by the chainring.

The next two methods are considered appropriate for almost all situations. The racer racer is my favorite.

The cross mount: Should be reserved for cyclocross racing. Some triathletes also do a variation of this mount when leaving T1. The mount can be done at speed or from a stop. It requires a little more  bike skill and doesn’t look pretty until the rider has practiced it quite a few times. The rider in one motion throws his leg over the top of the seat while pusing off with the oposite leg with enough force to push rider and machine into motion until the drive leg can start the pedals forward. The best description I have found is actually just to see it in action. check out the video.

The racer racer: I call it that only because at races you always see the front row of guys using this method, and I like to poke fun at racers (yes myself included). This is actually the way I recommend for most people to get going. It is smart, efficient and stylish in an understated way.  The starting position is clipped in on the drive side with the pedal is at the apex of it’s stroke. By standing up on the pedal the rider’s weight moves the bike forward and brings the non drive side pedal up to the top of it’s stroke ready to clip in and begin it’s power stroke.

After mounting up your ride has now begun!

Thanks for reading.

Branton

Enjoy.

Working in a bike shop however brings you a new appreciation for the bicycle as an entity in and of itself. Each machine has different balance points and nuances that must be respected when a rider is not present.

I loath seeing bikes left on their own in less than ideal situations. A bike continues it’s journey even when the rider is off doing something else. You know the feeling when you leave your bike alone for a moment and return to find it crumpled in a heap on the floor. With a few precautions you can keep this from happening.

I have always practiced the art of bike pampering when at all possible. It seems strange, but I know for a fact that a bike that is thoughtfully handled performs better than a bike treated only as a tool. Here are a few of my recommendations on ways to leave your bike if you have to step away.

The most common way to rest a bicycle is using two points (handlebars and seat) against a wall. But, there is something wrong with this picture!

This bike is in the same spot only flipped 180 degrees so that it wants to roll into the wall. This way it uses gravity to brace itself and is less likely to get away.

If you don't have a wall or other solid object you can use the curb as a Kickstand. Position your bike so that it rolls backward then use the mecanics of the drive train to prop the bike up with the pressure of the pedal againt the curb. DO NOT try this if it is windy.

If you have no other choice you can lay your bike down on it's side. Drive Side should be up and the non drive pedal should be at it's apex.

While this is an effective way to leave your bike it can damage thingls like computers and lights that may be mounted to your handlebars or stem. I would stay away from this.

There are some things that you should avoid to keep your bike free from scratches or dent and clearcoat cracks. We see it all the time and nothing makes a bike look worse than a big scratch on the top tube. Or a rear der. that is all scratched to heck.

It is NEVER OK to rest your top tube against any type of object to prop up your machine.

It is NEVER OK to lay your bike down with the drive side down. This is asking for trouble and downright disrespectful to your machine.

Another thing that I like to point out is that if you need to walk your bike for any reason. There are two acceptable ways to do this. The first is with your hand gripping the stem and guiding it along next to you. Second is a bit more complex. The more experienced cyclist may be seen guiding their steed with just one hand on the seat. The bike is steered by leaning it one direction or the other.

You can steer the bike with the stem. Being close to the midline of the bike gives you more control on where it goes.

You can control your bike by leaning it side to side.

I hope some of these suggestions are helpful.

Thanks for reading.

Branton

Of all the places. I found this image at ballentinefarm.com

This week while I am away from the shop I am trying to think about meaningful and relevant information that our customers can enjoy. Here’s are a few if the things I have come up with.

Simple Elegance: The bicycle is a simple machine and yet the practice of riding a bicycle for sport is rife with rites of passage and unstated nuance that can confound the burgeoning cyclist. The simple elegance series will focus on small things that are a part of every ride that when done correctly significantly improve the experience.

Overcoming Barriers: Obstacles present themselves in many ways to cyclists. They can be simple mechanical issues or the mental insecurities that come with being clad head to toe in spandex. Sometimes these obstacles present the opportunity to expand your cycling horizons or learn new things about your world, The overcoming barriers segments will be a way for me to share my stories about this.

These two topics should be enough to keep me busy for a few weeks. Please let me know if you want to have me address a specific issue you are having or if you want to share an experience that shaped your cycling life.

See you on the ride.
Branton
highrollercyclery@gmail.com

Don't be this guy

I love this movie (A Christmas Story) but don’t try to ride your bike looking like this.

Over the last few years it has become popular for riders of all levels to get a “bike fit”. I am big proponent of this and recommend it to anyone. But, bike fit is not static. It is a dynamic relationship between rider and bike that requires attention from time to time. The winter months are one of those times. As the weather gets colder, we start to see some positional issues related to environmental factors. As the temperature drops it may become necessary to modify bike fit to accommodate these factors.

The two factors we see that influence bike fit the most in winter are insufficient flexibility and equipment choices that hamper the rider’s ability to reach their normal warm weather setup.

During the winter most people are naturally riding less. The more you ride the more your body adapts to the position for riding. So conversely if you ride less you may loose some of this flexibility you gained during the summer months.

The cold weather itself is another factor. Cyclists often complain of “tight tendons” at the knee or Achilles. This is often attributed to the added exposure knees and ankles have due to the “windchill factor” of riding. While the sensation is the same the cause of the tightness is not in the tendons. Tendons are relatively static and respond to muscles. In colder conditions muscles loose a little of their pliability and involuntarily contract more than normal. Therefore, causing the tight sensation. This problem can also be exacerbated by dehydration. When it is cold out cyclists tend to not drink as much because of less perceived thirst or not noticeably sweating as much. Even though it may be cold our muscles still respond poorly to dehydration.

Not a good idea for cycling

The second factor that should be considered in the winter when bike fit is the issue is equipment choice. I mentioned in a previous post that you cant just break out your ski gloves and winter parka and go for a bike ride expecting to have a pleasant ride. Cycling puts the rider in a very specific position. This position means that clothing and accessories designed to work well for other endeavors normally fail to meet the needs of the winter cyclist. The cut of other outerwear leads to problems.

When the rider assumes a position on the bike standard outerwear pulls into abnormal positions because the cut and material is not designed to move in that way. The sleeves creep up on the arms allowing cold air to hit the wrist. The shoulders push up around head and neck impairing movement. Another annoying issue is that the tail of the jacket pulls up as the rider bends forward on the bike allowing cold air to hit the sensitive small of the back. Aside from these comfort issues there are the fit problems.

The extra material bunching up where it should not be and pulling on your body in unnatural ways makes reaching your normal position very hard. Even with proper cycling specific clothing the added layers can still impair your ability to ride comfortably in your usual position.

Typical changes the we make for winter accommodations include: …

We’ll save that one for next time.